UL Classified to protect your valuables in a fire for 1 hour in up to 1700°F (927°C), ETL Verified water resistance to protect your valuables in up to 8 inches of water for up to 24 hours, 2-4 live-locking bolts, solid steel construction and pry-resistant hinge bars provide our best protection from forced entry and tool attacks. Thanks to all the great info from previous contributors to this thread. Needless to say, I’ll be taking it back to Sam’s and getting my money back, regardless of whether it’s in or out of warranty. and from the movement out of any center-of-rotation, it seems sloppily built enough that …… that there will just be no cure. The light was on the display pad indicating batteries were low, so I changed the batteries. The safe is ruined, which is a blessing. It’s been sitting for over a year and just recently can’t be opened with the right combination. In Sentry’s defense, my safe lasted 10-12 years before failing. Well, here it is in 2014, and your WONDERFUL foto/entry is still getting use….. After replacing the solenoid (free after calling sentry) and trying it 10x before I closed the safe, it refused to open. Upon entering the 5 digit factory code the unlock symbol appeared on the display. I tried to break the handle off in the same direction that you would open the safe if its functioning properly, and it literally rocked the pins enough to open the safe. I bought this one to replace one that burned in a house fire. Were you getting flashing/beeping error code? I bet there is some fine print saying “not for actual security purposes”. Then, I thought about the termination of the 4-battery battery pack (4 x 1.5v), and thought, “why not try a single 9’volt!” I did, and now the solenoid goes a solid “CLUNK.” I STILL don’t like the idea that I’m relying on a battery/electronics to get at my goodies, but watching this think retract with such authority is inspiring. Yep, Hammer in the top right worked. I tried this 10 o’clock thing and it immediately opened. I WISH I CAN PUT A FEW PICS UP HERE, BUT IF YOU NEED IT, HIT ME UP AND I CAN SEND THEM TO YOU. I don’t have a rubber mallet, so I wrapped a kitchen cloth around a small picture mounting hammer (little 3oz) and taped-it. I got out the power tools, took one last look at the picture at the top of the forum to figure out where to cut or drill to disable the solenoid, punched in the combo a couple more times, beat the effin door a couple more times for good measure. Sdody, I read this thread about a year ago and when the mallet didn’t work I just forgot about. It took a while to figure this out ( we haven’t pushed that button in for five years) after finding the key. I tried it and opened this safe without using the combination or the key. Unscrew and remove override key lock cap. Thanks again for all the posts everyone posted with help ideas. Wait 30 minutes. I’m here to validate the Sawzall solution. So we bought one. With mine, batteries were rarely the issue. Still not sure how to close up the battery compartment/keypad as we follow instructions to twist it anticlockwise from 2pm to 12 noon position. After removing the inside panel from the door I also learned that the actuator cannot be manually powered at all. Read More: Best Nightstand Gun Safe; The benefits and drawbacks of a sentry safe I tried an invalid code just to be certain that it is functioning correctly when I enter the correct code and sure enough the invalid code shows the red indicator as it should. (I have an electronic keypad + keylock. The actuator comes with a sticker printed with the factory code. I didn’t have any wd40 so for about three hrs of trying off and on I bought some wd40 and sprayed the area around the handle. Thanks for the 10 o’clock information, that got me in. Find My Product Manual. If you are careful, you can work the inside cover over the plungers in the retracted position without breaking anything and carefully work it back on once you’re through lubricating everything. Self-Help How to Open a Sentry®Safe Touch Screen Lock and Dual Key Fire Safe. I will try the rubber mallet thing when I get home. The solenoid on the OA3810 is apparently on the upper right corner – getting physical. Model #BM859911*. With the lock pin removed the spring will push the plasticky piece in place of it to keep the locking bolt from moving. I let it set for an hr. Who the heck was dremling off the plastic to get at the inside. Then I stumbled upon this tread, hunted down the ole rubber mallet, gave it a good whack, just below the handle, entered the code and VOILA!!!! A power drill, chisel, hammer and 10 minutes of elbow grease had the door open with no damage to the safe’s contents. Thanks and regards. For whatever reason, I decided later in the evening to just *try* prying off the back so I could at least SEE what was wrong. You can see it in the pic in the first post above. I read the original post and ended up taking my A5365 sentry safe (2cubic foot) apart to find it was identical to the photo shown. Hi there, I’m having a problem opening my safe with a LA Gard keypad. Basically the same issue as everyone else, but mine had the actuator stuck in the open position. The bottom line is these are complete garbage. It doesn’t matter because this baby will go to the landfill. Works like new. You are exactly right, lubricating gears means nothing if the actuater plunger does not retract to let the arms pass by and that is where the problem is. Wrote Sentry customer service and they offered to send a new solenoid at no cost. Finally after researching online, I learned that if you use a rubber hammer and hammer the area where the actuator is more or less located, it will vibrate with the impact, and just like that, I kept pulling the handle until it opened, it took me no more than 30 seconds, …I ended up with a dent on the door, but got my documents out of the safe! Unfortunately the rubber mallet solution didn’t work in my case and had to resort to violence. Hi, But again, here it is, 2014, and this morning, it took me all of 15 minutes to Dremel the plastic back off, to find EXACTLY your picture. The actuator is able to get a lot more voltage dumped into it giving it a much greater charge to move the rods. I tried beating it about with my rubber mallet to no avail. Now I can't find where new batteries should be inserted. This is the first time I replaced the batteries. Surprise click and open” I changed the batteries and I still couldn’t turn the handle. They should be ashamed to make products like this, and I am in on that class action suit one poster was talking about. I got my safe from a friend who needed to get some important docs and said I can have it if I can open it. Those wires connected to the actuator, can’t you just apply a voltage to them from the keypad on the front and get in rather easily?!?!? Thank god I emptied it before it got locked as we were in the middle of moving locations. I took a flathead screwdriver and started trying to pry it away…some little plastic clip released near the top center, but that was all I could get, so I gave up. That’s my observation, but I didn’t design it, so maybe there is another explanation. Put in code in and firmly pull down on lever several times. I was not sure if the code pad had failed to drive the solenoid or if the solenoid was stuck. The dial spins easy now.. My code wouldn’t work, the factory code wouldn’t work, I tried just about everything from changing the batteries to insisting with the keypad, tried to reset the unit, …no luck, the circuit had gone bad. I finally got it open with a lot of torque on the handle and many heavy raps on the outside upper right hand corner of the safe door with a large hard rubber mall. any ideas? That’s the whole problem with this safe. Spend a little more money & get a quality safe such as Amsec or Gardall. I will never buy this safe again. I have tried to find it on ebay, but could not find anything similar. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Did what you suggested: hitting the from with a rubber mallet. Thanks so much! I took the solenoid completely out and reassembled the safe with the key lock only. I took the back cover off, removed the solenoid, and replaced the cover. Note the circuit (on back of solenoid) gets hot doing this so don’t leave the connection for too long (maybe 20 to 30 secs); while the wires are connected to 6V (as described) the solenoid may operate or you may need to use the rubber mallet if it is stuck. Viola! Plugged n a 9 volt and walla it functioned normally. Then I greased the gears, WD-40’d the actuator and pins. It slips in the crack between body and door very nicely. THANK YOU for the mallet advice. What a waste of money. I replaced the batteries even used a 9 volt. Twenty (20) seconds later I had it open, with very little effort. With the right number, the handle is jammed. I don’t think I’ll try anything with lubrication or replacing parts. So what to do if the safe is closed? Thank you to the person who put the picture up of the inside of the door ……it worked ,I hit it and it opened Thank god ….. I continued to beat on the door while forcing the handle to turn. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT I AM DOING THIS, BUT I THOUGHT I HAD TO SHARE THIS INFORMATION TO EVERYONE. I agree that this safe is very light duty construction. I enter my code and press enter/pgrm button and it beeps at me once but does not display the lock symbol and shows a number 1….. Sentry is closed for the holiday apparently (labor 2012) and it’s only Wednesday and the holiday isn’t until next Monday, so I have to wait until next Tuesday to talk to them. ( Log Out /  I’ll wait a week or so before putting my stuff back in the safe, however. Thank You All!! ONCE YOU HAVE THE DOOR OPEN, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS GREASE THE GEARS. Gives safe owners the ability to disable the primary lock, even if other people know the combination or access code. I think I will look for a different brand. What is holding it? Ever since I bought it, it has its moments that it don’t want to cooperate for a day or two..but now it just won’t open.please help as I … I did this a few times until no more rust/dirt seen on the rag. I removed the back cover, Pulled off the retaining clip on the gear. So, if you need to whack your safe, you can see that the upper right (as you’re facing it) would be the place to smack. I looked at the arrows before taking apart, but should have noted the top-right gear link since there are two arrows on that linkage. I have a Sentry Safe that I purchased from Sam’s a year or two ago (too lazy to look it up). And should I come across an aisle containing safes in any store, be sure that I will tell everyone in that Aisle what a horrible safe company Sentry is. Sentry should be sued because they make you go through all these steps every time you call customer service and nothing works. Today I no longer give s**t about the safe, I just wanted to get it open to see what was inside after all this time. There was kind of a cathartic satisfaction that went with it, too. The other thing you should do is use a bag of Silica or Desiccant to keep moisture from harming your items and the safe. The plastic battery holder has a connection for a 9 volt battery terminals. Why it is made of plastic is anyone’s guess, as it would be easier to defeat than the key lock is. We have tried a couple of set of batteries and wires seems intact. I even tried the “master” code. We used a mallet on the area right below the handle, put in our code, and the door finally opened. My sentry safe works with manual combination lock and it does not open. I should also have looked a bit harder since the door would not engage/lock properly due to mechanical issues. I took off the plastic and lubed up the selinoid but it still happens. Self-Help How to Program Codes on Your Sentry®Safe Electronic Lock Fire Safe. You just push the 5 metal locking pins inward and you can pull the plastic off ..? My thanks to this posting above and all the responses. The safe has a electronic keypad…no manual dial. Put in code and just yank up and down on the damn lever till the f*ckig thing opens…. No rubber mallet but a book works to cushion a regular one. With the inner cover off, everything is now working perfect for me as the actuater is where it is all at for sure, I have a sentry save with a keylock and electronic combination. I actually had my safe open and the plungers came back out to the locked position just by the spring pressure. Had same problem with OA5848 model SentrySafe, rubber mallet trick worked at first. Fire, flood, sure. Thanks to all that suggest the use of the mallet (below the handle area) and apply WD40 (if it opened)! wow this worked terrific – thank you for posting! Will not be locking it anytime soon. GOOD LUCK! I ran into the sticking mechanism issue, found your solution, have kept the safe OPEN for the last few YEARS while I curse Sentry and neglect checking out the mechanism….. I have a sfw205gpc sentry safe and it does not open. I recently went to open it, and it simply won't open. The handle has come all the way out and when I put it back in and try to turn it to open, it won’t click to open the safe. Thanks Sentry. When i put the pass-code on my Sentry Safe the handle will remain locked and I have to hit it with a hammer to get it to disengage. nothing works wd.40, rubber mallet. Just for fun, I hit the face of the safe (now facing upward) many times all over with the rubber mallet, then tried the keypad combination one more time. wouldn’t open after pushing in the correct code and it actually flashes green. If you don’t lock your safe with the key as well, anybody can simply kick the handle down and open your safe. What worked: 30 happy seconds with my circular saw, cutting the back 1/3rd all around it. this safe company should be held liable. I was relieved to figure out why the moisture was there. I replaced the batteries just to be sure it wasn’t them and still won’t open even when the green indicator showing the code was good. The seal around the door will not allow anything liquid to pass into the lugs. I lubricated the solenoid and the other moving parts with WD-40, actuated it numerous times, and everything is back working normally. I guess if this safe is ever involved in a fire it will open automatically as all the parts melt! Sooo…. If you have a Sentry safe with a manual combination lock like the CS5481, I don’t know if any of this is going to help you. Pry-resistant hinge bar reinforces the door of the safe for added protection against theft. Burglars were able to open my previously owned safe (Sentry … I relied on this thing for 5-6yrs to keep my valuables secure. how do I get the factory combo for my 1610 safe. WTF!!! I was an employee at Sentry Safe for 27 yrs. My only problem is putting the cover back on, it is binding on the hinge side, the inner spacer does not want to go over the inner wall I think and it is binding the plungers, any suggestions? I then started looking on the web and found this post by lighthouse. When pulling apart the rods and gear to straighten out everything a little black piece of plastic with a spring popped out of the gear area and I cannot find where it goes or what it does. Looks like some preventative maintenance every year or so will keep everything working as it should. It opened! I sprayed anything that had movement. I’ve had the safe for over 5 years now. We had this problem this week. This is a major problem for Sentry Safe owners because most safe experts charge $125 an hour and up, with a $75 service call and a minimum of 2 hours labor. MINES IS OPENING SMOOTHLY NOW AFTER I GREASED THE GEAR. Grease on the gears is good, but don’t forget some WD-40 (silicone) on the solenoid while you’ve got it apart! Hi, can someone help me? Good luck with that! The safe is useless now but that is ok it was garbage before. What year is this one, it only take 1, 12 V battery & a key, they had lost the key years ago & it’s very heavy I say 4 foot by 4 foot, did not pay much at all, what is my best choices, call a lock Smith or try a new battery & get a notary to get the ownership in my name? I finally got so mad i just started smashing all the plastic on the front with my 32 oz framing hammer. After putting the keypad back on from changing the batteries, my code won’t open the safe. The more adventurous examples of opening Sentry safes that can be found on YouTube whilst appealing weren’t viable for me. Removed one screw off the actuator and then unplugged the actuator. beeper But for as little as I have stored in it, I may just move my stuff to a small box or envelope inside my husband’s large gun safe and return this to Costco if they’ll still accept it. For the last couple of years, banging around the handle got the solenoid to engage. The idea posted here makes sense that something is stuck inside that won’t release the handle fully. You’d have to contact Sentry. The damn thing opened. Guides to safe setup, troubleshooting, and other support needs. I just came here to say that after whacking the safe for almost an hour with a mallet to no avail, the 9V battery method finally worked. Then died sooner and even a 9 volt battery wouldn't open it. Is this different to resolve? Imagine how pissed I would have been if a thief had gotten in as fast as I had. Same problem here with the A3867, RESOLVED. Great info all around! I hit the safe door with the back of my fist a couple of times from the outside right where the photo shows the solenoid to be located. Model A3750 had for at least 20 years! Ensures thieves cannot easily remove the safe from your home or office. Dumb design, pure and simple. The inner locking mechanism of the door failed dramatically. Bad situation. We will never buy another SENTRY PRODUCT EVER. I squirted wd-40 into the solenoid housing (very minute amount) and cleaned out the hole with a rag on the tip of a small screw driver. I couldn’t find my rubber mallet, so I kept reading until I found this thread. Thanks, Bought a Sentry OA5848 Electronic safe that was missing key. I entered the default code and kept getting ‘Err’; no other feedback. when we punch in the code you can hear it click. At least I’ve had this working for 18 years. thanks for sharing this info. The handle moved and the door opened and I now have my passport!! It wouldn’t open either. Be sure to remove them before locking your safe. I have the same problem, ERR message using the factory code. Hopefully, we can get Sentry to replace it. I found that my problem was with the solenoid sticking and not releasing the latch handle. My husband tried the rubber mallet and that didn’t work either, so he went at it with a hammer and crowbar. I got it opened, found the document I needed, and then decided to tinker. As you can see, these are all just cast parts, which means they are probably very soft metal. Never, never, never buy a Sentry product. I found the battery compartment on the right hand side of the dial pad, pulled it out and replaced the batteries right away, put the pack back into the dial pad, tried the combination and it opened, so moral to the story is change the batteries ASAP when the low battery light flashes. I was able to see the actuator sticking however, it was not the problem, atleast for my safe It seems that the issue was a tension clip that lets the safe handle stay in the locked position. After many good laughs reading suggestions and frustrations – I had replaced the batteries, tried the handle up to 10 o’clock – it wouldn’t go up at all. Well, the safe is open but, of course destroyed. I greased the dial and the handle with wd40 that did not work. Get yourself a 15″ pry bar available at any good hardware store for a few bucks. I removed it and the safe worked fine, nothing iwth the actuator, … I did lose the functionality that the latching did which is hold the handle in the locked position but I can live with out that.. For $500 to replace the safe, its a quick fix. Hate this thing. We had to literally break in to our own safe! Change ), Whirlpool Gold Refrigerator GS6NVEXSS01 Dispenser Frame Detached from Door, Upgrading 500GB Mirror on a Boot Partition (C: Drive) to 1TB Mirror on a 3Ware 9550SX Controller. Most digital logic is 5 or 3.3V so there’s probably a voltage regulator on the circuit board to reduce the power and not burn out the keypad board. Needless to say, I cracked and broke the cover in a couple of places, but it is not installed and working great. DSW 3930: I tried all these solutions, end up hitting the handle downward with a hammer; two blows and the safe was opened (took longer to get the hammer than to open the box). Thank you guys so much for this post. I remembered the combo but had to do several tries before it opened.. the dial was tight.. thanks to all your posts I sprayed WD 40 in the little hole in the back and kept playing with the dial.. does not display the “unlock ” symbol after entering my code which I know is the correct code– the factory one. So I have a DS3607 Sentry safe with keypad and handle. I’ve lubed the bejesus out of it, actuated it an interminable number of times, and IT STILL STICKS. It was opened by a burglar in les than 30 to 45 seconds by the time I grabbed my 9mm it was over and he was gone. My wife recently tried to open it and, even though it agreed with the combination that was entered, the electronic opener refused to release the lock. No go. I belted the day-lights out of it with a rubber mallet and got no satisfaction. Thank you, This is the exact problem I think I am having. I am not handy and wondering if its worth the trouble as there is clearly a problem all together with this safe and I would hate to have important items in there that I would need. I’ve changed the batteries 3 times, hit it with a mallet, and it still will not open. The second one was slightly damaged, but I decided so what. When I type in the code, I get an “ERR” message and it beeps 4 times. I am having problem with safe, enter the combo, then get six error flashes and beeps. WD 40 (or other pentrating oil) the area where the lever to open the door pivots. I contacted Sentry, but they seem more interested in "teaching" me how to open the safe … I first tested all four batteries with my handy-dandy battery tester and they all passed with flying colors. So, IF YOUR SAFE WILL NOT OPEN ELECTRICALY check to make sure you have not inadvertantly actuated the manual key lock!! I knew when I bought my Sentry that the whole idea of relying on something either electronic *or* battery-driven was a security mistake, but I guess I was rushed, and ….. and one followed my home. Amazing. After two passes through the process, I felt the lever go down a little and on the next tap and press, it went all the way down. Complete with a deep flexible drawer for organized storage of letter-size hanging file folders to the smallest of valuables, this safe is ideal for all your home and office security needs. I recently had a problem with the keypad that kept showing error when I put in the combo. I’ve been having trouble like the rest. Maybe! Using a Rubber Mallet worked like a charm for me. Peace. I think Sentry safes suck! The old code that I used with old actuator, does not work once I replace the actuator. I worked on the assembly floor and have … The actuator made a nice “thunk” sound and the door opened. Called Sentry Safe 3-5x and left numerous e-mails. I shook the daylights out of the door while punching in the code,and suprisingly it opened like a charm.Still cannot figure out a I tried the hammer on the front of the door. Insert key and turn counterclockwise (left) to unlock door (notch on key in upward position). I opted to be called back in the order my call was received and my wife got a rep sooner when she called 30 minutes later on her phone. Friday evening I needed the title for a car I was selling and I couldn’t get into the safe… HA! Off to the dump. When ours opened up, we can see the two horizontal rods and lubricated the 2 ends. I have a sentry save with a keylock and electronic combination. This safe has caused so much frustration in the 5 years we’ve had it! Anyone interested in a class action lawsuit, contact me at dskincaid2011@hotmail.com. The light was on the display pad indicating batteries were low, so I changed the batteries. Thanks for the mallet tip – works a charm. Thank you so much for the “open sesame” secret. This small safe opens using a key and … anyone know were I can get a bank vault door??? Key rack, door tray, deep door pocket, file organizer, and adjustable tray. Recently it decided not to work. This product sucks!!!! In short if your code pad fails and you want to drive the solenoid directly disconnect the wires from the code pad; connect the black and red together and connect them to +6V. I honestly think with a long enough crowbar you could just pop it. I assume it came with the 4AA battery module. Purchased my Sentry with the Electronic Lock at Sam’s Club back in March, 2007. To open a Sentry Safe with combination, you can follow the below steps: Open the door of the safe, and ensure those shipping screws have been removed (if any) Find the combination code on the user manual (usually there is a sticker on the user manual) If you are using a dual key/combination model of the Sentry Safe… Of course it had all of our important things like deeds and passports in it. What that was today when i took it and opened Sentry should be inserted this, after... Vault door????????????! These precautions when you first get it open in about 1 minute seemed to be quite low, the moved. 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Adventurous examples of opening Sentry safes that can be expected of a,! Lock is punched in the correct electronic combination & key Sentry safe A3867, and locking. Course it had no paperwork matter because this baby will go to the landfill like to put the. Plastic is anyone ’ s guess, as it should bad keypad the center not be manually powered at.! Try as if it was opened i took it and it won t...